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Thought maybe this would be a good place to start an auto repair Topic. There are forums all over the web about how to work on cars. From changing the oil, to replacing the engine. Now we have an XDBX Automotive Repair Topic.

So here is a Topic for posting questions, tid bits, or common fixes for automotive problems.

Personally I specialize in Chrysler, and BMW.

Edited by Dodgeservice
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Everything I know pretty much goes back to pre 1990's vehicles (before all the electronic bullshit) and mostly GM products

  • Like 2

The funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it.

:default_sign0081:

  • 3 weeks later...

Thought maybe this would be a good place to start an auto repair Topic. There are forums all over the web about how to work on cars. From changing the oil, to replacing the engine. Now we have an XDBX Automotive Repair Topic.

So here is a Topic for posting questions, tid bits, or common fixes for automotive problems.

Personally I specialize in Chrysler, and BMW.

Haha, free car advice ;)

What do you know about the fuel sender of an infiniti G35? I know its fairly close to the BMW setup (2 senders, 1 in each side of the tank). I have already pulled both out (independently) and found the drivers side (one w/o fuel pump) to have an awkward shaped rod holding the float.

Given the bends in the rod, it couldn't provide any feedback above a half tank. I looked briefly at a new unit and noted its float setup. From there I bent the rod, eyeballing an approximate full tank reading/setup.

Before modifying, the gauge never read 100% full, maybe only 75% and would rapidly drop to E when empty (within 30 miles perhaps). After the modification, it displays full for ~90% of the tank, quickly drops to 1/2 a tank then to E (and can go that same 30 miles)

Do you know what the ohm output of the potentiometer "should" read for each sending unit? That info sure would assist in troubleshooting

Do you know what the ohm output of the potentiometer "should" read for each sending unit? That info sure would assist in troubleshooting

Ohms will show the resistance. But the fuel level should be measured off of Volts. I understand that you can calculate one using the other. My understanding is that the system should rely on a 5 Volt Feed. So, you can infer the fuel level by monitoring the voltage being sent from sender. 5V ~ Full and .5V or so ~ Empty. My guess is you have a faulty sending unit. Probably a dead spot or 2 on the potentiometer. Now you have figure out which one it is. Left or Right sender. Fuel level is usually determined by an algorithm in the PCM based on voltage output from both units in the saddle tank. That doesnt really make manual diagnosis easy. The only way I know to diagnose that issue is to trick the senders into believing that one side is fuller than the other, and make the transfer pump engage.

 

Hopefully this helps a little.

Edited by Dodgeservice

Dodgeservice.png

Everything I know pretty much goes back to pre 1990's vehicles (before all the electronic bullshit) and mostly GM products

Thats good because I dont know shit about carburetors. I understand the principle and the application, but if I had one in my hand, it might as well be a paper weight.

Dodgeservice.png

Ohms will show the resistance. But the fuel level should be measured off of Volts. I understand that you can calculate one using the other. My understanding is that the system should rely on a 5 Volt Feed. So, you can infer the fuel level by monitoring the voltage being sent from sender. 5V ~ Full and .5V or so ~ Empty. My guess is you have a faulty sending unit. Probably a dead spot or 2 on the potentiometer. Now you have figure out which one it is. Left or Right sender. Fuel level is usually determined by an algorithm in the PCM based on voltage output from both units in the saddle tank. That doesnt really make manual diagnosis easy. The only way I know to diagnose that issue is to trick the senders into believing that one side is fuller than the other, and make the transfer pump engage.

Hopefully this helps a little.

Thanks Dodge. I'll see what I can figure out ;) Good info BTW!

  • Like 1

Thats good because I dont know shit about carburetors. I understand the principle and the application, but if I had one in my hand, it might as well be a paper weight.

I know a little, rebuilt several Quadrajunks back in the day, and a few Holley's

  • Like 1

The funniest thing about this particular signature is that by the time you realise it doesn't say anything it's to late to stop reading it.

:default_sign0081:

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a mk5 VW Golf GTI, I was driving earlier and overtook someone and I looked in my rear view and saw a puff of smoke. I didn't get a real good look at the colour but I think it was grey.

 

Any ideas on how fucked she is and do I need to burn the fucker out?

  • 7 years later...

broke my ignition coil in 2 after changing 8 spark plug, right where the coil starts, then I lost the nut cap. Celebrate American GIF by Hello All

 

The question is, is it safe to drive if I put the 2 parts together and screw it down with a screw from another ignition coil just to keep them all firing? 

Edited by Smurf
  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/3/2022 at 2:50 PM, Smurf said:

broke my ignition coil in 2 after changing 8 spark plug, right where the coil starts, then I lost the nut cap. Celebrate American GIF by Hello All

 

The question is, is it safe to drive if I put the 2 parts together and screw it down with a screw from another ignition coil just to keep them all firing? 

You can try it. If it fires, it'll work for a little while. But I'd get a coil on order. 

  • Like 1

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